As October comes to an end, while much of the world prepares for Halloween with pumpkins, witches, and spooky decorations, Sicily takes a different path. The island transforms itself in a celebration of life, family, and memory through the beloved Festa dei Morti (Feast of the Dead). It is an extraordinary tradition, celebrated every 2nd of November, which coincides with All Souls’ Day. It’s a time when families come together to honour the dead and celebrate life.
Unlike Halloween, this isn’t a spooky event, but a heartwarming celebration where people light candles and visit loved ones’ graves to pay their respects. This ancient tradition, which dates back centuries, is one of Sicily’s most cherished cultural events, filled with joy, remembrance, and a feast for the senses.
Every year on November 2nd, a day after All Saints Day, families across the island gather to honour the memory of their loved ones by visiting cemeteries, lighting candles, and decorating graves with flowers. But it’s more than just a visit to the cemetery; it’s about bringing the whole family together to remember the souls of the departed in a way that blends faith, tradition and Sicilian food culture.
About this Truly Unique Tradition
Though the Festa dei Morti is meant to honour those who have passed, it’s a celebration filled with happiness and warmth. According to tradition, on the night between November 1st and 2nd, the spirits of deceased relatives return to visit their loved ones, bringing special gifts and treats for the picciriddi (children). Parents, in a kind-hearted ritual, leave toys, martorana (almond paste fruits), and pupi di zucchero (sugar puppets) for the children to find in the morning. This tradition helps children see death not as something to fear, but as a natural part of life, where love continues even after someone has passed.
One of the unique aspects of the Sicilian Feast of the Dead is how it contrasts with Halloween. While Halloween is filled with dark, spooky symbols, La Festa dei Morti focuses on life, community, and sharing. It feels almost like a traditional festival, reminding everyone that even in death, family bonds remain strong.
The day itself is far from somber. On November 2nd, families visit cemeteries, not in grief, but to reconnect with their loved ones in a joyful, affectionate way. As the famous Sicilian writer Andrea Camilleri once described, it’s a day where the living “reciprocate the visit the dead made to us.” This simple yet profound tradition brings a sense of comfort, where both young and old find peace in celebrating life, even in the presence of death.
In the lead-up to this special day, many Sicilian towns host Fairs of the Dead, where you can purchase traditional sweets and toys. These fairs are vibrant and bustling, allowing both locals and visitors to soak in the rich traditions of the island. The entire experience—whether tasting the local delicacies, enjoying the sight of sugar puppets in shop windows, or visiting a beautifully adorned cemetery—makes the Festa dei Morti a truly unique time to visit Sicily.
Traditional Foods and Sweet Delights
This specific day is a time when people gather in the house to honour their loved ones with prayers and special meals. Traditional foods like fave dei morti biscuits and a round loaf symbolise the offerings to the deceased.
During the Festa dei Morti in Sicily, the island comes alive with colourful displays of sweets and delicacies, all crafted to honour the deceased. By mid-October, cafés and bakeries begin preparing for the event, filling their shelves with treats used in “u canistru,” a basket traditionally packed with dried fruits, biscuits, and special sweets. This basket, offered to honour the deceased, is a beautiful representation of Sicily’s deep connection between traditional food, family, and memory.
Sweets Delights
Among the most beloved treats is Frutta di Martorana, which are small, intricate sweets made from almond paste, known locally as pasta reale. Shaped and hand-painted to resemble fruits, vegetables, and sometimes even more playful shapes like fried eggs or pumpkins, these little works of art are as beautiful as they are delicious.
Then, there are the Pupi di Zucchero, bright, solid sugar-based figurines traditionally shaped like knights or ladies, though modern versions can include cartoon characters to appeal to children. These edible sculptures add a fun twist to the holiday, making the celebration of the dead more joyful.
The ossa dei morti (bones of the dead) are another unmissable treat. These cinnamon and clove-flavoured biscuits consist of a caramelised base and a crumbly white top, resembling bones in appearance. Their texture is unique, achieved by allowing the biscuits to dry in the sun for several days before baking.
The Misto Siciliano or tetù and teio biscuits are another beloved Sicilian treats traditionally enjoyed during the Festa dei Morti.
These cookies have a crunchy exterior and a soft, porous inside, making them irresistible. Their name, “tetù e teio,” translates to “one for you and one for me,” highlighting their tradition of sharing. The tetù are covered in a dark cocoa glaze, while the teio are coated in a simple white sugar glaze. Originally made with leftover pastries, each batch of these biscuits is unique, with recipes varying across Sicily.
Taralli are delightful Sicilian biscuits, flavoured with lemon zest and glazed with a sweet lemon sugar icing, these soft, fragrant treats offer a refreshing citrus kick that balances their crumbly texture. The dough is made with simple ingredients like flour, butter, and eggs, while the glaze gives them a glossy finish. They’re a must-try for anyone seeking a taste of authentic Sicilian food culture, especially during this time of remembrance.
Mustazzoli are spiced cookies typically prepared with cooked wine, giving them a rich flavour profile, often enhanced with almonds, cinnamon, and orange zest. These sweets, originating from ancient Roman recipes, are traditionally linked to festive occasions and are especially popular in western Sicily.
Reginelle, also known as sesame seed cookies, are crispy biscuits rolled in sesame seeds, giving them a nutty flavour. These cookies are a staple in Palermo and are perfect for pairing with tea or coffee. Their slightly sweet taste, combined with the toasted sesame seeds, makes them an irresistible treat.
Savoury Delicacies
Savoury delicacies like muffolette, a round roll stuffed with anchovies, olive oil, and spices, balance out the sweetness, reminding us of Sicily’s love for simple, high-quality ingredients.
One of Sicily’s most traditional savoury dishes during La Festa dei Morti is Macco di Fave, a thick, wholesome broad bean soup with roots dating back to Roman times. The ritual of preparing this dish is linked to an ancient legend, which says that broad beans contained the tears of the dead within their seeds. Traditionally made with olive oil and wild fennel, Macco di Fave symbolises nourishment and memory, offering a taste of Sicily’s rich history and culinary tradition.
Book a Villa for Your Stay
At Sicily4U, we offer a range of holiday homes and villas in some of Sicily’s most charming locations. Whether you want to stay in a quiet retreat near the countryside or a villa with sea views, our properties provide the perfect base to experience La Festa dei Morti and explore Sicily’s rich cultural heritage.
Our villas are equipped with all the modern amenities, allowing you to relax after a day of sightseeing, visiting cemeteries, or indulging in the local cuisine. Make the most of your Sicilian getaway by staying with Sicily4U and truly feel part of this unique cultural celebration.
